How to Raise a Bike Handlebar for Better Control

Why Handlebar Height Matters

Do you finish rides with a sore back, aching neck, or numb hands? These are common signs that your bike doesn't fit you right. One of the biggest problems is having handlebars set too low. Fixing your handlebar height is a basic step toward making your bike fit better.

Getting it right changes your whole ride. It makes you more comfortable and gives you better control on the road or trail. The process depends on what type of stem your bike has - either threadless or quill. This guide will show you how to identify your system and make the change, whether you need to know how to raise handlebars on a mountain bike, road bike, or hybrid.

Your handlebar height controls how your upper body sits on the bike. This affects how your weight spreads out, how comfortable you feel, and how well you can handle the bike. A bar that's too low makes you hunch over in an aggressive position.

While this position cuts through wind better, it puts a lot of strain on your lower back, shoulders, neck, and wrists. For most riders, finding a comfortable spot is the key to enjoying cycling for years to come. By raising your handlebars, you create a more upright riding position.

The benefits show up right away:

Finding the right height means balancing wind resistance with a comfortable position you can maintain. As bike fitters and daily riders ourselves, we’ve helped countless cyclists—from city commuters to weekend trail riders—solve common discomfort issues simply by adjusting handlebar height. Whether you're learning how to raise bike handlebars for the first time or optimizing your setup for performance, this guide walks you through proven, real-world solutions.

Identify Your Stem Type

Before you pick up any tools, you need to figure out which type of stem your bike has. This is the most important first step because the methods are totally different for each type. Almost all modern ebikes use a threadless stem, while older bikes and some cruisers use a quill stem.

Here's how to tell them apart:

Once you know your stem type, you can follow the right instructions below.

🧠 Did You Know?
Threadless stems became standard after the late 1990s for better adjustability and weight savings, especially in mountain and road bikes. Quill stems, while still seen on vintage and cruiser bikes, are simpler to adjust but more limited in height range.

How to Raise Bike Handlebars with a Threadless Stem

This is the most common system on modern bikes. You make the adjustment by moving the spacers on the tube. You can only raise the handlebars if there are spacers currently above the stem. If all your spacers are already below the stem, you'll need to look at other solutions in the next section.

Tools You'll Need

🔧 Allen Keys – 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm
🧰 Torque Wrench – For safety and precision
📏 Masking Tape – Optional, to mark bar angle
🔨 Rubber Mallet – For stuck quill stems
🔩 Wrench – If stem has external hex nut

Step-by-Step Instructions

• Loosen the top cap bolt
• Loosen stem pinch bolts
• Slide off stem and spacers
• Move spacers from top to bottom
• Reinstall stem and top cap
• Adjust headset preload
• Align stem and tighten bolts evenly

First, loosen the top cap bolt using an Allen key (usually 5mm). Remove the bolt in the center of the top cap completely. This bolt doesn't hold the stem on - its job is to set the pressure on the headset bearings, which we'll adjust later.

Next, loosen the stem pinch bolts on the back of the stem. There are two horizontal bolts that clamp the stem to the fork's tube. Loosen these bolts several turns until the stem can move freely.

Now, carefully slide the stem straight up and off the tube. Be ready to support the fork, as it may want to slide down and out of the frame. Then slide off the spacers that are above the stem.

This next step is the key to raising your handlebars. To raise them, you will move spacers from above the stem to below it. For example, if you have one 10mm spacer above the stem and two below it, moving that top spacer to the bottom will raise your handlebars by 10mm.

Put the spacers you want below the stem onto the tube first. Then slide the stem back on, followed by any remaining spacers you want to keep on top. Finally, place the top cap back on and hand-tighten the top cap bolt.

Setting the headset preload is a critical safety step. Tighten the top cap bolt just enough to remove any play in the headset. From our experience, the best way to check this is with the "rocking test." Stand next to the bike, hold the front brake lever firmly, and place your other hand over the gap between the frame and the fork.

Rock the bike forward and backward. If you feel a "knocking" or movement, tighten the top cap bolt by a quarter-turn and test again. The goal is to get rid of all play without making the steering feel tight or rough. The goal is to get rid of all play without making the steering feel tight or rough. If you’re struggling to eliminate play in the headset after tightening, double-check that all spacers are in place and the top cap has enough clearance. A common mistake is having the steerer tube flush with the top of the stem, which prevents proper preload. Make sure there’s a small gap (3–5mm) above the steerer to allow the top cap to compress everything correctly.

Finally, straddle the bike and look down, lining up the stem so it's perfectly straight with the front wheel. If you've found your ideal height and no longer plan to experiment with spacers, you can consider cutting the steerer tube to match. This eliminates any excess length sticking above the stem, which can be a hazard in a crash. However, only do this when you're fully confident in your setup, as cutting is permanent. Once it's aligned, use your torque wrench to tighten the two side pinch bolts to the manufacturer's recommended spec (usually printed on the stem itself, typically 4-6 Nm). Tighten them bit by bit, switching between the two bolts to ensure even pressure.

For a full breakdown, mechanics trust these industry-standard procedures for threadless stems.

How to Adjust a Quill Stem to Raise Handlebars

Adjusting a quill stem is easier mechanically, but it has a critical safety limit you must respect. This system is common on older or vintage-style bicycles.

Tools You'll Need

• Allen Key (often 6mm) or a Wrench (if it has a hex nut instead of an Allen bolt).
• Rubber or Wooden Mallet.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Using your Allen key or wrench, turn the single bolt on the top of the stem counter-clockwise. Loosen it by two or three full rotations but don't remove it completely.

This bolt connects to a wedge at the bottom of the stem inside the fork. Loosening it should free the wedge, but often the stem is stuck from rust or pressure. Here's a pro tip: if it doesn't move, give the top of the loosened bolt a firm but gentle tap with a mallet. This will knock the wedge loose and allow the stem to move. Once loose, you can pull the entire handlebar and stem assembly up.

This is the most important safety step. Etched on the shaft of the quill stem is a line or hash marks labeled "MAX-HT" or "MIN INSERTION." You must not raise the stem so high that this line shows. This line shows the minimum amount of the stem that must stay inside the frame to be safe.

Raising it beyond this point can cause the stem to snap or pull out during a ride, leading to a dangerous failure. With the stem at your desired height (and safely below the minimum insertion line), align the handlebars so they are straight with the front wheel. Once straight, firmly tighten the center bolt until the handlebars are secure and cannot twist separately from the wheel.

Other Ways to Raise Your Bike Handlebars Higher

Sometimes, moving spacers or raising your quill stem to its max height isn't enough. If you've used up the standard adjustments and still need to come up higher for better comfort, you have a few great options. Another option is flipping your current stem. Most stems can be installed in either direction—what's called a “positive” or “negative” rise. If your stem is angled upward, flipping it can lower the handlebars; if it’s angled down, flipping it can raise them. Just remove the faceplate, detach the handlebar, rotate the stem, and reassemble. This technique is often used by riders seeking fine-tuned height changes without buying new components.

For Threadless Stems

Adjustable angle stems have a pivot that lets you change the angle, giving you a wide range of height options without needing new parts. You can replace your current stem with one that has a steeper upward angle. Stems commonly come in 6 or 7-degree rises, but you can find stems with 17, 30, or even 45-degree rises that will significantly raise your handlebars. For budget-friendly upgrades, you can also look into used stems or spacers from local bike shops or online marketplaces. Many bike shops sell spare parts at low cost, making it easy to experiment before committing to a pricier solution.

A steerer tube extender is a device that clamps onto your existing tube and effectively makes it longer. This allows you to raise your stem much higher than would otherwise be possible, and it's a strong solution for riders who want maximum comfort.

For Quill Stems

A quill stem riser works like the threadless extender and fits into your head tube, providing a new, higher clamping point for your existing quill stem. You can buy a replacement quill stem that is taller or has a more dramatic upward angle built-in, offering a clean, integrated look.

Keep in mind that making a big height increase (more than an inch or two) might mean your existing brake and shifter cables are no longer long enough. You may need to have longer cables and housing installed. If your bike has an integrated cockpit—with brake and shift cables routed through the handlebar and stem—you may face more limitations. While lowering the bars might be easier thanks to split spacers, raising them often requires professional rerouting of cables or installing longer hydraulic hoses. In such cases, it's best to consult a bike shop.

Watch Out for These Common Mistakes

When learning how to raise bike handlebars, riders sometimes overlook key steps that affect both comfort and safety. One common mistake is forgetting to re-check the headset preload after adjusting spacer positions. Another is raising a quill stem above the minimum insertion line—this weakens the structure and could cause failure mid-ride. Also, don’t forget to realign your stem carefully before tightening; even a few degrees off can cause discomfort on long rides.

Fine-Tune Your Handlebar Height for a Perfect Fit

✅ Quick Checklist After Adjusting Handlebar Height:

• Handlebars are aligned straight with the front wheel
• No knocking during rocking test (headset is tight)
• Cables are not overstretched or too short
• Wrist and hand pressure feels reduced
• Breathing feels easier and posture is upright
• You tested the new setup for at least 15 minutes

Your work isn't done after the first adjustment. In bike fitting, handlebar height is often discussed in terms of “saddle drop”—the difference in height between the saddle and handlebars. Saddle drop is a term often used in professional bike fitting. It's measured as the vertical distance between the saddle and the top of the handlebar. For example, elite road cyclists often ride with a drop of 4–10 cm to improve aerodynamics, while recreational riders typically aim for zero drop or even a slight rise for comfort.

A greater drop puts you in a lower, more aggressive position; a smaller drop offers a more upright, relaxed posture. Recreational riders usually start with the bars level with or slightly above the saddle, but experimenting in small increments will help you discover what feels best. The final step is to dial in the fit perfectly. We recommend making small changes - one spacer at a time (5-10mm). After each adjustment, go for a short 15-20 minute test ride and pay close attention to how your body feels. Is the strain in your neck gone? Does the pressure on your hands feel better?

The goal is to find your personal sweet spot. As a general starting point for recreational riding, aim for the top of your handlebars to be roughly level with the top of your saddle. So, how high should your bike handlebars be? That depends on your riding goals. For comfort-focused riding, handlebars level with or slightly above the saddle offer a relaxed, upright posture. For aggressive performance, a lower handlebar may help reduce wind resistance—but at the cost of comfort. Always balance fit with function when adjusting handlebar height. 

From there, you can try small adjustments up or down until it feels just right. Listen to your body because it will tell you when you've found the perfect position. Also, keep in mind that raising your handlebars may slightly shorten your reach to the grips. This can make the ride feel more upright but may also shift your wrist angle and hand pressure. If it feels too cramped, consider a longer stem or adjusting your saddle position slightly backward.

Take Control of Your Ride

Adjusting your handlebar height is one of the most impactful changes you can make to your bicycle. By taking the time to identify your stem, follow the correct procedure, and focus on the key safety checks like headset preload and minimum insertion lines, you can get rid of pain and transform your riding experience.

A comfortable rider is a confident rider. Taking control of your bike fit is the first step toward many more miles of happy, pain-free cycling, whether you're learning how to raise a bike handlebar for the first time or figuring out how to raise handlebars on a mountain bike specifically.

Ready to enjoy more comfortable, confident rides? Start by adjusting your handlebar height today. If you're unsure which method fits your bike or need help choosing the right tools, drop us a comment or reach out to our team—we’re here to help.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. How much should I raise my handlebars?

Start with small changes of 5-10mm at a time. Most riders find comfort when their handlebars are roughly level with their saddle height. Make one small adjustment, test ride for 15-20 minutes, then decide if you need more height.

2. How do I make my bicycle handlebars higher?

The easiest way to make your handlebars higher is by moving spacers below the stem if you have a threadless setup, or by raising the quill stem if your bike uses that type. If you've already maxed out those options, you can install a stem riser or swap in a higher-rise stem. Learning how to raise bike handlebars effectively comes down to identifying your stem type and working within its range.

3. Can I raise my handlebars if all the spacers are already below the stem?

If you have a threadless stem with no spacers above it, you cannot raise it using the standard method. You'll need to consider alternatives like an adjustable stem, high-rise stem, or steerer tube extender to gain more height.

4. What's the difference between threadless and quill stems?

Threadless stems clamp around the outside of the fork tube and are found on most modern bikes. Quill stems insert down into the frame's head tube and are common on older bikes. The adjustment methods are completely different for each type.

5. Is it safe to raise my handlebars to the maximum height?

For quill stems, never raise them beyond the minimum insertion line marked on the stem shaft. For threadless stems, you can safely move spacers from above to below the stem, but always ensure proper headset preload after adjustment.

6. Do I need special tools to raise my handlebars?

For most adjustments, you'll need basic Allen keys (typically 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm). A torque wrench is highly recommended for threadless stems to avoid over-tightening. For quill stems, you might need a rubber mallet to free stuck components.

7. How to install handlebar risers on a bicycle?

Installing handlebar risers is a simple upgrade. For threadless stems, a steerer tube extender fits over your existing fork steerer and gives you more height to clamp the stem higher. For quill stems, a quill riser fits into the original slot and raises the clamping point. Both options are beginner-friendly and often require only basic tools like an Allen key.