How Do You Remove a Bike Pedal: Complete E-Bike Guide

Why Learn How to Remove a Bike Pedal

Learning how to remove a bike pedal is a basic skill for any rider. This is especially true for e-bike owners who might want to upgrade for better performance or replace a damaged part. While it might seem scary, it's a simple job you can do at home with the right tools and knowledge.

The most important thing to remember is this: your left pedal is reverse-threaded. This means the old saying "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" only applies to the right-side pedal. Getting this right is 90% of the battle.

This guide will walk you through everything you need to know. We'll cover the reasons you might want a new set of pedals, explore the specific needs of e-bikes, provide a detailed step-by-step process for removal, offer solutions for stubborn, stuck pedals, and finally, guide you on how to install your new set perfectly.

Why and When to Replace

Before you grab your tools, it's helpful to understand why you might need to swap your e-bike pedals. This isn't just about repairs; it can be a major upgrade to your riding experience.

Common Reasons for a Swap

Upgrading for Performance or Comfort: The stock pedals that come with many e-bikes are often basic. Upgrading to a pedal with a larger platform can provide more stability and support, which is especially noticeable at the higher average speeds of an e-bike. Pedals with more aggressive pins can offer better grip. This keeps your feet securely in place on bumpy terrain or in wet conditions.

Damage or Wear and Tear: Pedals take a lot of abuse. A hard pedal strike on a curb or rock can bend the spindle or crack the pedal body, making it unsafe to ride. Inside the pedal, the bearings can wear out over time. If you feel a gritty, rough sensation when spinning the pedal, or if it has too much play, the bearings are likely shot and it's time for a replacement.

Switching Pedal Type: Your riding style might change over time. Many riders start with standard flat pedals but later decide to move to clipless pedals for a more secure connection to the bike and improved pedaling efficiency. Hybrid pedals offer the best of both worlds. They have a flat platform on one side and a clipless mechanism on the other, giving excellent versatility for riders who use their e-bike for both commuting and fitness.

Looks and Customization: Sometimes, you just want your bike to look its best. New pedals are an easy and cheap way to add a pop of color and customize your e-bike to match your personal style.

E-Bike Pedal Differences

A common question we hear is whether ebike pedals are different from those on regular bikes. The short answer is both yes and no. While they share the same basic mechanics, the unique demands of electric bikes make certain features more important.

Durability and Strength

An e-bike motor puts a lot of torque into the drivetrain, putting more stress on every part, including the pedals. When you combine your own pedaling force with the motor's help, especially during acceleration or on steep climbs, the load on the pedal spindle and body is huge.

For this reason, choosing pedals with strong construction is critical. Look for models with a strong aluminum alloy body and a durable chromoly spindle, as they are better equipped to handle these increased forces over the long term compared to cheaper plastic or basic steel options.

Pedal Threading Standards

Here's the good news: you don't need to hunt for special "e-bike" threading. The vast majority of modern adult bicycles, including virtually all e-bikes, use a universal pedal thread size: 9/16" x 20 TPI (threads per inch).

This standard makes finding compatible replacement pedals incredibly easy. While some very old bikes or children's bikes with one-piece cranks used a smaller 1/2" standard, you can be confident that your e-bike uses the 9/16" size.

Special E-Bike Features

Certain pedal features are particularly helpful for e-bike riders, improving safety, convenience, and comfort.

Folding Pedals: If you own a folding e-bike or need to store your bike in a tight space like a hallway or an RV, folding pedals are a game-changer. A simple mechanism allows them to fold inward, significantly reducing the bike's width for easier storage and transport.

Built-in Reflectors: Visibility is very important for safety, especially for commuters who ride in low-light conditions. Many high-quality pedals designed for urban use have built-in reflectors on the front and back edges. In many regions, these are a legal requirement. So it's a feature worth prioritizing.

Platform Size and Grip: As mentioned, a larger platform provides a more stable and comfortable base for your foot. This helps reduce foot fatigue on longer rides and provides a greater sense of control, which is reassuring on a heavier, faster e-bike.

Part 1: The Removal Process

Now we get to the main event: how do you remove a bike pedal. Follow these steps carefully, paying close attention to the directions for each side of the bike. The key is smooth, steady force in the correct direction.

Step 0: Tools and Prep

Gathering your tools beforehand makes the job go smoothly. You don't need a professional workshop, just a few key items.

Before you start wrenching, prepare your bike. Shift the chain onto the largest chainring at the front. This serves as a guard, protecting your knuckles from the sharp chainring teeth if your hand slips.

Step 1: The Right Pedal

Start with the right side, or "driveside," of the bike (the side with the chain). Rotate the crank so the right crank arm is pointing forward, in the 3 o'clock position.

This position allows you to push down on the wrench, using your body weight for leverage. Fit your pedal wrench onto the flats of the pedal spindle, or insert your hex key into the back of the crank arm. Make sure the tool is fully and securely seated.

The Golden Rule: To loosen the right pedal, turn it counter-clockwise. The easiest way to remember this is to push your wrench down towards the rear of the bike. Apply steady, firm pressure. We recommend bracing the opposite (left) crank arm with your other hand to keep it from rotating. This prevents you from losing balance or slipping. The pedal should break free with a small pop.

Step 2: The Left Pedal

Move to the left, or "non-driveside," of the bike. Rotate the crank so the left crank arm is pointing forward, in the 9 o'clock position. Fit your wrench or hex key just as you did on the right side.

The Reverse Rule: The left pedal is reverse-threaded. To loosen it, turn it clockwise. Again, the easiest way to visualize this is to push your wrench down towards the rear of the bike. This reverse-threading is intentional—it prevents the pedal from unscrewing itself while you ride, due to a mechanical phenomenon called precession. Once it’s loose, spin both pedals the rest of the way off by hand.

Step 3: Clean the Threads

With both pedals removed, take a clean rag and some degreaser and thoroughly clean the threaded holes in both crank arms. Wipe away all the old grease, dirt, and grime. This is also a good time to inspect the threads for any signs of damage or stripping.

When Pedals Are Stuck

In a perfect world, every pedal would unthread with minimal effort. In reality, they are often seized from corrosion, dirt, or being over-tightened without grease. If your pedals won't budge, don't despair. Here are a few methods to try, in order from least to most aggressive.

Method 1: Improve Leverage

Often, you just need more mechanical advantage. If a standard wrench isn't cutting it, your first step is to increase your leverage. A dedicated pedal wrench with its long handle is a great start. You can also try slipping a "cheater bar"—a sturdy metal pipe—over the handle of your wrench to extend its length.

This multiplies the force you can apply. You can also carefully use your body weight by standing next to the bike and pushing down on the end of the wrench with your foot. Just be sure the wrench is securely on the pedal to avoid it slipping off.

Method 2: Use Penetrating Fluid

If leverage alone doesn't work, corrosion is likely the culprit. This is where a true penetrating oil comes in. These fluids are formulated with a very low viscosity to seep deep into threads and break the bonds of rust and corrosion. From our experience, the key is patience.

Apply the fluid generously to the point where the pedal spindle enters the crank arm. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes. For severely stuck pedals, letting it soak overnight can work wonders. After it has had time to work, give the end of the crank arm a few sharp taps with a rubber mallet. This vibration can help the oil penetrate even deeper into the threads. Then, try removing the pedal again.

Method 3: Apply Heat (With Caution)

This is an advanced technique and should be your last resort. Heat works because the aluminum of the crank arm expands at a faster rate than the steel of the pedal spindle. This slight expansion can be just enough to break the corrosion bond between the two.

Disclaimer: Use extreme caution.

Heat can easily damage the paint on your crank arm or harm nearby plastic or carbon fiber components. Never use an open flame like a torch. Use a heat gun on a medium setting. Carefully apply heat to the crank arm in a circle around the pedal hole for about 30-60 seconds.

The crank should be hot to the touch, but not glowing. Immediately fit your wrench and attempt to remove the pedal. The heat provides a short window where removal is much easier.

Part 2: Choosing and Installing

With the old pedals off, you're ready for the satisfying final step: installing your new set. But first, let's make sure you've chosen the right ones.

A Quick Guide to Pedal Types

Flat/Platform Pedals: The most common type. They are versatile, work with any shoe, and are ideal for commuting, casual riding, and trail riding.

Clipless Pedals: These require special cycling shoes with cleats that "clip" into the pedal. They offer superior power transfer and efficiency, making them a favorite of road cyclists and serious mountain bikers.

Hybrid Pedals: These offer the best of both worlds, featuring a clipless mechanism on one side and a standard flat platform on the other. They are perfect for e-bike owners who want efficiency on a long workout ride but also the convenience of hopping on with sneakers for a trip to the store.

The Installation Steps

Proper installation is just as important as proper removal. Doing it right ensures your pedals stay secure and are easy to remove next time.

Identify Left and Right: This is the most critical step. New pedals are clearly marked with an "L" and an "R," usually stamped or etched on the end of the spindle. Do not mix them up, as trying to force a pedal into the wrong side will destroy the threads in your crank arm.

Apply Grease: Greasing threads is essential. Apply a generous layer of bicycle grease or anti-seize compound to the threads of both new pedals. This simple step prevents corrosion and ensures you won't have to fight with a stuck pedal years from now.

Install the Right (Driveside) Pedal: Take the "R" pedal. Using your fingers, carefully thread it into the right crank arm. It should thread in clockwise (towards the front of the bike). You should be able to turn it several times by hand. If you feel resistance, stop, back it out, and try again to avoid cross-threading. 

Install the Left (Non-Driveside) Pedal: Take the "L" pedal. Thread it into the left crank arm by hand. Remember, this side is reverse-threaded, so you will turn it counter-clockwise (also towards the front of the bike).

Final Check: Once both pedals are threaded in by hand, use your pedal wrench or hex key to snug them down. They should be tight, but there is no need to use all your strength. A firm, snug fit is all that's required. Give them a spin to make sure they move freely, and you're ready to ride.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Do I need special tools to remove bike pedals?
A: You need either a pedal wrench (15mm) or a 6mm/8mm hex key, depending on your pedal type. A pedal wrench is preferred because it provides better leverage. You may also want penetrating oil for stuck pedals and grease for installation.

Q: Why won't my left pedal come off when I turn it counter-clockwise?
A: The left pedal has reverse threading, which means you need to turn it clockwise to loosen it. This is the opposite of normal threading. Remember to push your wrench down toward the rear of the bike on both sides.

Q: Can I use regular bike pedals on my e-bike?
A: Yes, e-bikes use the same standard 9/16" x 20 TPI threading as regular bikes. However, consider choosing pedals with stronger construction since e-bikes put more stress on components due to motor assistance.

Q: How tight should I install new pedals?
A: Pedals should be snug but not over-tightened. Thread them in by hand first, then use your wrench to tighten them firmly. Over-tightening can damage threads and make future removal difficult.

Q: What should I do if my pedal is completely stuck and won't budge?
A: Try these steps in order: use a longer wrench for more leverage, apply penetrating oil and wait 30 minutes to overnight, tap the crank arm with a rubber mallet to help the oil penetrate, and as a last resort, carefully apply heat with a heat gun (never an open flame).