
Why Your 28 mph eBike PAS Always Goes Full Speed
You have felt it before. That sudden, rough jolt happens when the pedal assist on your powerful 28 mph ebike turns on without warning. You expect a gentle push on the lowest setting, but you get a strong surge that feels like an on/off switch instead of help. It feels frustrating and scary. We want to tell you something important: this problem happens to many people, and your bike probably works fine.
The issue usually comes from the sensor system your bike uses to start the motor. Many ebikes, especially cheaper ones, use a system that lacks smooth control. This guide will help you understand and fix this rough behavior. We will explain why this happens by showing the difference between a cadence sensor and a torque sensor. Then we will walk you through steps to make your ride smoother, starting with easy screen changes and moving to harder fixes. Let's help you get back smooth, reliable control.
Understanding Your PAS
The Pedal Assist System, or PAS, is the main part of your ebike's electric help. This system uses a sensor to know when you pedal and tells the motor to give power. But not all sensors work the same way. The "all-or-nothing" feeling you get almost always comes from one type: the cadence sensor. Learning about the two main sensor types will help you fix your problem.
A cadence sensor works like a basic switch. It sees that the pedals turn but doesn't care how hard you pedal. When it sees movement, it tells the controller to send a set amount of power to the motor based on your assist level like Level 1, 2, or 3. The assist levels on a cadence system don't control power output but control the top speed the motor will help you reach. So on Level 1, the motor gives almost full power until you hit about 10 mph. On Level 5, it gives that same full power until you hit 28 mph. This is why it feels so rough. Think of it as a light switch that is either on or off.

A torque sensor works much better. It measures how much force you put on the pedals. The harder you pedal, the more help the motor gives. It boosts your effort in the right amount, making a smooth, natural experience that feels like you have super strong legs. This works like a dimmer switch where you have full control over the output. This is why expensive bikes often feel so smooth and natural.
Feature | Cadence Sensor | Torque Sensor |
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How it Works | Detects pedal rotation (is it moving?) | Measures pedal force (how hard are you pushing?) |
Rider Experience | "On/Off" feeling; motor surges to a set speed | "Bionic leg" feeling; smooth, proportional amplification of rider effort |
Common On | Budget to mid-range ebikes | Mid-range to premium ebikes |
Main Cause of "Full Speed" Issue | Yes, this is its fundamental design | No, it provides proportional assistance by design |
Many 28 mph ebike makers use cadence sensors to keep costs low while still giving the high speed that makes the bike a Class 3 vehicle. While this works for reaching top speed, it loses the smooth control that makes riding comfortable and safe, especially at low speeds or in tight spaces.
Regaining Control of Your Ride
Now that you know the "why," let's work on the "how." We have organized this guide from easy fixes to harder solutions. We suggest following these steps in order because the simple fix often works best.
Level 1: Display Adjustments
Before touching any parts, first look at your ebike's display and its hidden settings. These screen changes can make a big difference in how the pedal assist works.
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Check Your PAS Level: This might seem obvious, but always start riding on the lowest PAS level, usually Level 1. As we learned, on a cadence system, this doesn't reduce power but limits the top speed where the motor helps. Starting at a lower level stops the bike from trying to shoot you to 28 mph from a stop.
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Explore Display Settings (P-Settings): Most ebike displays have a hidden "P-settings" or advanced settings menu. You can usually reach this by holding button combinations like the "Up" and "Down" arrow keys at the same time for a few seconds after turning on the bike. Your user manual or a quick online search for your display model should show you how to access it. In this menu, look for these important settings:
- Power/Current Level per Assist Level: Some advanced controllers let you set the percentage of motor power or amperage given at each PAS level. If you find this, you can turn PAS 1 down to 10-20% of maximum power, making a much gentler start.
- Speed Limit per Assist Level: This is more common. You can often set the maximum speed for each PAS level. By setting Level 1 to a very low speed like 6-8 mph, you can make it a special "low-speed maneuvering" mode.
- Start-up Power / "Slow Start" Setting: Look for a setting that might say "Slow Start" or something similar. This controls how quickly the motor builds up to its target power. Making the delay longer or setting it to a "softer" start can help a lot.
The goal of these changes is to smooth out the power delivery, making it feel more controlled and less like a shock. The smooth feel described in professional tests of how a Class 3 e-bike should feel is what we want to copy.
Level 2: Physical Inspection
If the display settings don't fix the problem, the next step is checking the PAS parts physically. A sensor that is not lined up right or broken can send wrong or "always on" signals to the controller.
- Inspect the Cadence Sensor and Magnet Ring: Find the sensor on your bike's frame near the bottom bracket where the pedal cranks attach. It's a small plastic sensor. The magnet ring is a plastic disc with several small magnets in it, mounted on the crank arm.
- Check the Gap: The distance between the sensor and the magnets as they pass by should be very small, usually 2-4 millimeters. If the gap is too big, the sensor may not read right. If they are too close, they could hit each other. You can usually loosen the sensor's mounting bracket to move its position.
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Check for Damage and Debris: Is the sensor body cracked or loose? Is the magnet ring covered in mud or grease? Are any of the small magnets missing from the ring? One missing magnet can make the system pulse or act strange. Clean both parts with a rag and make sure everything is secure and complete.
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Check All Wiring and Connections: Follow the wire from the PAS sensor up to the main wiring bundle. Look for any places where the cable might be pinched, frayed, or stretched. Most ebikes use waterproof connectors with arrows for alignment. Carefully unplug the PAS sensor connector, check the pins for damage or rust, and plug it back in securely. Do the same for your throttle connector, as a broken throttle can sometimes mess with PAS signals.
Level 3: Advanced Solutions
If you have tried the display and inspection steps, the problem may be with the basic limits of your bike's original parts. For people who want the best control, there are more advanced solutions.
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Consider a Controller Upgrade: The controller is the "brain" of your e-bike. Basic controllers offer limited programming options. Upgrading to a fully programmable controller is a big improvement. These units let you fine-tune every part of your bike's performance, including throttle response curves, PAS power levels, and startup smoothness. While it's a solution for serious enthusiasts, resources from companies that make advanced programmable controllers show just how deep this customization can go.
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The Ultimate Fix: Converting to a Torque Sensor: For the most natural riding experience, nothing beats a torque sensor. For some bikes, you can replace the entire bottom bracket assembly, which includes the cadence sensor, with a torque-sensing unit. This is the most complex and expensive solution, often costing several hundred dollars for the parts and needing special tools and significant mechanical skill. It's not a simple swap, but it completely changes the bike's feel from a jerky "on/off" system to a smooth, natural ride that truly feels like an extension of your own power.

Safety First: The Risks
Making an aggressive pedal assist smoother isn't just about comfort; it's a critical safety issue. A 28 mph ebike is a powerful vehicle that moves at traffic speeds, and predictable control is essential. An unpredictable power surge creates several serious risks:
- Loss of Control: Sudden, unexpected acceleration is extremely dangerous, especially when turning, in tight spaces like bike lanes, or crowded pedestrian areas. It can easily make you lose your balance or swerve into an obstacle.
- Increased Braking Distance: When the motor is unexpectedly pushing you forward, you have to fight against it with your brakes. This greatly increases the force and distance needed to stop safely.
- Pedestrian & Traffic Hazards: Your ability to ride safely around others depends on them being able to predict your movement. A bike that lurches forward without warning is dangerous to everyone around you.
- Component Strain: Constant full-power jolts from a standstill put huge stress on your bike's drivetrain. This can cause early wear and tear on the chain, sprockets, and motor gears, possibly leading to an expensive failure.
Until you fix this issue, ride very carefully. Be ready to brake at all times and leave extra space between yourself and others.
When to Call a Pro
While many PAS issues can be solved with the steps above, it's important to know your limits. Trying advanced electrical work without proper knowledge can damage your bike or, worse, be unsafe. We suggest getting help from a qualified ebike mechanic if:
- You have tried all the Level 1 and Level 2 troubleshooting steps without success.
- You are not comfortable working with electrical components, wiring, and multi-pin connectors.
- You think the problem is inside the sealed controller unit or the hub motor itself.
- Your ebike is still under warranty. Doing advanced repairs or modifications could void your warranty coverage.
A good ebike mechanic has the diagnostic tools and experience to find these problems quickly and safely, saving you time, frustration, and money in the long run.
A Smoother, Safer Ride
The jarring sensation of a 28 mph ebike PAS going full speed can ruin an otherwise thrilling ride. As we've seen, this behavior is most often a characteristic of a simple cadence-based sensor system, not necessarily a major fault. By working through the solutions logically, you can regain control and dramatically improve your riding experience.
To recap the path to a smoother ride:
- Start with your display settings to adjust the power, speed limits, and startup behavior of each PAS level.
- Physically inspect the PAS sensor and its wiring for common issues like misalignment, dirt, or damage.
- Understand that advanced solutions like programmable controllers or a full conversion to a torque sensor exist for those who want the ultimate level of control.
- Always prioritize safety and never hesitate to consult a professional if you're out of your depth.
By taking these steps, you can transform your ebike from an unpredictable beast into the smooth, powerful, and safe vehicle it was meant to be. Enjoy the ride.
FAQ
Q: Why does my 28 mph ebike always go full speed even on the lowest assist level?
A: This usually happens because your bike uses a cadence sensor instead of a torque sensor. Cadence sensors work like an on/off switch - they detect pedal movement and send a preset amount of power regardless of how hard you're pedaling. The assist levels only control the maximum speed, not the power output.
Q: Can I fix the aggressive pedal assist without replacing expensive parts?
A: Yes, you can often improve the behavior through your bike's display settings. Look for P-settings or advanced menus where you can adjust power levels, speed limits per assist level, and slow start settings. Also check that your cadence sensor is properly aligned and clean.
Q: Is it dangerous to ride an ebike with unpredictable pedal assist?
A: Yes, unpredictable power surges can be very dangerous. They can cause loss of control, increase braking distance, and create hazards for pedestrians and traffic. The sudden acceleration is especially risky when turning or in crowded areas. Always ride carefully until you fix the issue.
Q: What's the difference between a cadence sensor and a torque sensor?
A: A cadence sensor only detects if the pedals are turning and gives preset power amounts. A torque sensor measures how hard you're pushing the pedals and provides proportional assistance - the harder you pedal, the more help you get. Torque sensors feel much more natural and smooth.
Q: When should I take my ebike to a professional mechanic?
A: Consider professional help if you've tried display adjustments and basic inspections without success, if you're not comfortable working with electrical components, if you suspect controller or motor problems, or if your bike is still under warranty. A qualified mechanic can diagnose issues safely and quickly.
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